We woke up excited about spending the day in Machu Picchu! Our big plan was to beat the crowds using the Lonely Planet's technique; sleep in Aguas Calientes, the town at the base of Machu Picchu, and jump on the first bus up to the entrance, which left at 5h30. This would allow us to get in ahead of the crowds coming in from Cuzco on their day trip. As no one else in the world reads the Lonely Planet, this was a fool-proof plan! We were especially keen on this as we (especially Ariana, since she is such a good phoographer) wished to get there to catch the early morning light.
So, after a hurried breakfast provided by the sleepy staff at our hostal, we quickly tore down the 50 steps that separated us from the street below to get to the bus stop. These steps, by the way, are very steep, and we had forgotten about them the day before on our way back from Pucutici and had stared at them somewhat apathetically then, not in the mood for more of those. Fortunately, the promise of beer and empanadas to hold us until dinner made this last effort worth it.
There were no buses yet although it was nearly 5h20. Instead, hundreds of flabbergasted-looking people, seeming sore that they had somehow been cheated from the tranquility that their early (some would say middle of then night) rise was supposed to have provided them with. Hair in all directions (when not flattened by haphazerdly placed wooly hats that made us all look like Doby, the mark of the tourist in Peru), snotty eyes between sleepy and disbelieving, we all meekly placed ourselves at the end of the fast growing line along which vendors offered sandwiche and drinks.
The buses arrived punctually and left as soon as full, a quick procedure which nevertheless required a further 20 minutes before our turn came. We sat in the chilly pre-dawn darkness of our seats but were soon awakened by the ride; the switchbacks across the steep flank of the mountain were narrow, and the drivers had to honk to let their presence known to the others coming back down to pick up more passengers. The constant honking, abrupt breaking and slow, backward driving very close to precipices had the adrenalin going in no time!
The half hour ride up deposited us into yet another line up where we had to give our tickets and where some unlucky people had their drinks and food confiscated (ours was hidden). A group of Israelis who had decided to save some money by tackling the ardous, 1.5 hour climb in the darkness to the entrance stood by, bristling. They had just found out that they were to have bought their tickets the day before, back in town. How they managed to miss this crucial piece of information when it is clearly written in all guide books and plastered all over hostals is a mystery.
Finally in we went, around a quick corner, and almost immediately, we were hit full on by the grandiose, massive, awing shape of the Machu Picchu ruins, mysterious and eerie in the clear, early morning light, beckoning us to silence and contemplation.
So, after a hurried breakfast provided by the sleepy staff at our hostal, we quickly tore down the 50 steps that separated us from the street below to get to the bus stop. These steps, by the way, are very steep, and we had forgotten about them the day before on our way back from Pucutici and had stared at them somewhat apathetically then, not in the mood for more of those. Fortunately, the promise of beer and empanadas to hold us until dinner made this last effort worth it.
There were no buses yet although it was nearly 5h20. Instead, hundreds of flabbergasted-looking people, seeming sore that they had somehow been cheated from the tranquility that their early (some would say middle of then night) rise was supposed to have provided them with. Hair in all directions (when not flattened by haphazerdly placed wooly hats that made us all look like Doby, the mark of the tourist in Peru), snotty eyes between sleepy and disbelieving, we all meekly placed ourselves at the end of the fast growing line along which vendors offered sandwiche and drinks.
The buses arrived punctually and left as soon as full, a quick procedure which nevertheless required a further 20 minutes before our turn came. We sat in the chilly pre-dawn darkness of our seats but were soon awakened by the ride; the switchbacks across the steep flank of the mountain were narrow, and the drivers had to honk to let their presence known to the others coming back down to pick up more passengers. The constant honking, abrupt breaking and slow, backward driving very close to precipices had the adrenalin going in no time!
The half hour ride up deposited us into yet another line up where we had to give our tickets and where some unlucky people had their drinks and food confiscated (ours was hidden). A group of Israelis who had decided to save some money by tackling the ardous, 1.5 hour climb in the darkness to the entrance stood by, bristling. They had just found out that they were to have bought their tickets the day before, back in town. How they managed to miss this crucial piece of information when it is clearly written in all guide books and plastered all over hostals is a mystery.
Finally in we went, around a quick corner, and almost immediately, we were hit full on by the grandiose, massive, awing shape of the Machu Picchu ruins, mysterious and eerie in the clear, early morning light, beckoning us to silence and contemplation.
Yeah, right. Us and hundreds of other people trying to get past and vie for a good spot to take a picture from, trying to avoid having anyone else appear in it. A very amusing and friendly sort of musical chairs ensued, with people lining up to have their picture taken in apparent isolation while others respectfully remained invisible, awaiting their turn at the coveted spot. We took tons of shots.
Ariana informed me that she was not up to another climb that day, and as I fervently wished to be forgiven for dragging her up steep ladders and stairs the day before, I went to line up for the Wayna Picchu hike, meeting up with the same people as yesterday. Only 400 people are allowed in per day to preserve the site, and I felt lucky to be among the number. Ivan and I climbed up giggly with excitement, finally able, with the sun rising and the exertion, to remove our many layers. It took about an hour and a half to make it up, and we were rewarded by spectacular scenery. This, however, was not a place for people with fear of heights!
Ariana informed me that she was not up to another climb that day, and as I fervently wished to be forgiven for dragging her up steep ladders and stairs the day before, I went to line up for the Wayna Picchu hike, meeting up with the same people as yesterday. Only 400 people are allowed in per day to preserve the site, and I felt lucky to be among the number. Ivan and I climbed up giggly with excitement, finally able, with the sun rising and the exertion, to remove our many layers. It took about an hour and a half to make it up, and we were rewarded by spectacular scenery. This, however, was not a place for people with fear of heights!
Once down, we met up with Ariana, who had been busy taking amazing pictures and loading up her 12 gigs of memory. She was also, unfortunately, getting bitten by bugs again, which she's been doing pretty much since she arrived. I think I will ask her to come with me on any trip where bugs are involved, as she attracts them so well that anyone standing close to her is quite safe!
We ate some of our snacks and kept walking around the site, occasionally eavesdropping on the tour guides giving explanations. With our gringo clothes, they had no idea that we understood Spanish and French perfectly, and we got plenty of interesting information. Then, by going a bit further, we arrived at a spot where there were few others, and we could finally feel the tranquility of the place.
Ivan was soon nearly asleep, and Ariana started to meditate. And I, at once calmed but energized by the beauty of it, was feeling fidgety. Unable to convince Ariana to come with us, Ivan and I tacked th Machu Picchu peak, which, at 3200m, gives the ruins their name. Ariana went to chase llamas, and was shocked to see so many of them copulating.
As there is no food or water here and as we had exhausted our supply, this 800m climb was a lot more arduous than the other two, and nothing but the promise of beautiful views could have made us persevere. Rewards there were! At over 3200m, the summit dominated everything else, and the ruins were dwarfed in the distance, surrounded by snowy summits. We could have stayed there for hours had we not been so hungry and thirsty. To our surprise, there was a friendly dog up there, and were worried that it would die here with nothin. We encouraged it to come down with us.
As there is no food or water here and as we had exhausted our supply, this 800m climb was a lot more arduous than the other two, and nothing but the promise of beautiful views could have made us persevere. Rewards there were! At over 3200m, the summit dominated everything else, and the ruins were dwarfed in the distance, surrounded by snowy summits. We could have stayed there for hours had we not been so hungry and thirsty. To our surprise, there was a friendly dog up there, and were worried that it would die here with nothin. We encouraged it to come down with us.
One last look at the Machu Picchu ruins before getting on a bus back to Aguas Calientes, exhausted, and absolutely exhilarated!
That night, Ariana and I had our first pisco sour. I tried hard to eat without falling asleep and ending up with quinoa all over my face. We slept like logs!
That night, Ariana and I had our first pisco sour. I tried hard to eat without falling asleep and ending up with quinoa all over my face. We slept like logs!
1 comment:
wow, stunning looking place!
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